The lastest 'Vogue' magazine's view on Cosmeceauticals.
"Editors' Blogs
Credit: Conde Nast Archive.
- 16 th Jan 2013
Vogue's beauty director tries out active skincare.
Since having a baby, I’ve grappled with the post-baby beauty conundrum of sallow skin and pigmentation.
Now, finally, I’ve seen the light. After several months of topical vitamin C, AHAs and retinol, my skin has been reborn. Yes, folks. I’ve found active skincare and I’m spreading the gospel like some kind of born-again clinician. Hallelujah!Active skincare, also known as cosmeceutical or clinical skincare, is considered more active than most over-the-counter products as they contain a higher percentage of active ingredients. Most lines are built around targeted scent-free serums, which you layer on to address particular concerns, rather than thick luxurious creams that smell great but don’t do a lot. This is serious skin therapy minus the fluff. Active ranges are usually sold through dermatologists, medi-spas and skin clinics because it’s important to have an expert instruct you in the right products for your skin and how to use them.
I first discovered how effective actives can be several years ago when I tried Australian brand Rationale Skincare. I started using The Essential Six and within a month noticed serious changes in my skin. I loved that the founder, cosmetic chemist Richard Parker, had come up with a tight edit of only the ingredients that have been proven to work via peer-reviewed literature.
A couple of years went by and I was distracted by organics and luxe French brands. But, as we say in fashion, three times and it’s a trend. When I had three different beauty experts prescribe actives to me again, I had to get back on the program.
Since actives are strong, it’s all about taking it slow and building your skin up to the ingredients to avoid irritation. So first up, Alexia Shinas at Next of Skin put me on to another Australian brand, Aspect. Their Exfol 15 uses lactic acid to unplog pores and keep hormonal spots at bay. It worked a treat.
When my skin was used to that, the owner of cute Sydney North Shore salon Missy’s Place, Kylie, suggested the Aspect Doctor Active C Serum – a super-charged antioxidant and peptide formula to repair and protect skin.
Finally, I was ready for the big guns: retinol or vitamin A. One of the most effective skingredients around, retinol brightens, tightens and clears skin remarkably. The only downside? It can cause sensitivity if it’s not used correctly. The travelling peelsman, James Vivian who comes to your home to treat you, suggested I start with CosMedix Define Resurfacing Treatment but “only a pea-sized amount every third night”. This cream uses a special form of retinol that converts to retinoic acid once absorbed into the skin, so is less irritating that traditional prescription-only Retin-A. I’ve worked my way up to daily applications and my skin is looking better than ever.
The only problem with these brands is the packaging. Think functional (to protect the stability of the ingredients), high tech and basic. As an unapologetic aesthete, this does offend my sensibility – and my bathroom cabinet. The good news is some brands are getting the message. Rationale have just revised its packaging with glossy black bottles that are numbered, for ease of use. They’ve also reformulated and have taken out all their preservatives. They are about to open a clinic in Sydney’s Woollahra, so I am going to get my skin analysed and try the new products. I’ll report back. Watch this space!"
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